tale of two cities
Of all Britain's cities, few make such a diverse - and
easy - escape from London as the 'twin sisters' of Bristol and Bath.
Though just 19 kms (12 miles) apart, each is a standard bearer of a
different age. Bath, with its elegant architecture, is the place of
the Romans and Jane Austen. Bristol is a lively harbourside city, its
history peppered with pioneering seafarers, transatlantic adventurers,
and daring entrepreneurs.
VisitBritain's city web site reassured me that they are, in effect,
one destination only a few minutes drive apart, or a short train journey.
They are situated about 190 kms (119 miles) west of London. Bristol
is a handsome maritime city built on sea trade. Shipping is still evident
as you arrive, for the city centre is ranged around the old docks, now
restored and surrounded by stunning new as well as historic architecture.
There's a number of towered and spired churches to see, but if you can
only manage one make it St. Mary Redcliffe, dating from the 13th century.
The modern buildings are also notable. Look for Millennium Square, a
new open air space for fairs and concerts, with a silvery sphere that
contains a planetarium.
Explore on foot, to find many interesting places: from a restored Victorian
Byzantine granary - now Belgo restaurant - to the old Corn Exchange
with its brass tables, or nails. To pay "on the nail" is an
expression that has passed into the English language. The spacious quays
of Harbourside are clustered with cafes and restaurants. Try the Firehouse
Grill, River Station or Pero's Bar. Even a short stroll around the centre
reveals lots. Take in handsome Queen Square, where the first overseas
US Consulate was established in 1792. Among varied exhibits, the Industrial
Museum reflects Bristol's darker past, with a section on the slave trade.
The Old Vic Theatre, which is almost 250 years old, and the Old Duke
pub with its jazz, are both close. At the Arnolfini Centre (a modern
gallery where Sir Paul McCartney was a recent exhibitor) and the Watershed
are cafés and shows.
Bristol was a centre for wine export and glassmaking
and the famous blue glass can be seen at the city museum. The Clifton
Suspension Bridge across to handsome Clifton was a marvel when constructed
in 1830 by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Thirteen years later he designed
the first screw propelled 'ironside' ship for transatlantic crossings.
The SS "Great Britain" is now at berth here and can be visited.
Brunel, a prolific Victorian engineer, also built the Great Western
Railway, whose route still links Bristol with London. Among the annual
events is a colourful Harbour Festival (Aug 4-5, 2001). For a flavour
of the seafaring past, visit the historic Llandoger Trow pub, reputedly
where writer Daniel Defoe met the inspiration for "Robinson Crusoe".
Highlight of the city's new attractions is '@ Bristol'. Actually, it's
three-in-one, made up of a hands-on science and technology centre (great
fun!); an IMAX theatre and 'Wildscreen', a tropical rainforest with
free-flying birds and butterflies. Bath is famous for its 18th century
architecture. Built of blocks of golden stone it is all displayed superbly:
the buildings marching up hillsides, in sweeping crescents and rows
of smart terraces. Fittingly, it is England's only World Heritage City,
an accolade awarded by UNESCO. Head up towards the Pulteney Bridge,
spanning the River Avon; to Bath Abbey, and, beneath its golden tower,
the wonderful Roman Baths.
Here you can see the UK's only natural thermal springs, the water gushing
out of its rocky cleft. Just 100 metres away, Bath is building a new,
state-of-the-art spa, opening in autumn 2002, when visitors will once
again be able to take the waters. Walk across to the main shopping street
and squares to Gay Street - home of a new centre devoted to one of Bath's
most famous residents, authoress Jane Austen. She and her sister lived
in various houses - although not this one. But you will gain a very
good impression of life in late 18th century Bath here: I also found
the staff happy to discuss their favourite author's works. Walk up the
hill to the Assembly Rooms where another treasure can be found - the
Museum of Costume. An array of dress styles from three centuries is
displayed - you are given a 'wand' to listen to descriptions. After
your tour, look at the suite of grand salons above. These were once
Bath's great attraction for fashion-conscious 18th century citizens.
A very curious museum is to be found near another Bath landmark -the
Theatre Royal, with its year-round entertainment programme. The Impossible
Microworld offers a world in miniature.
In Bath they take tea time seriously - and in several of the local hotels,
including the luxurious Royal Crescent, you can try this very English
pastime. England's first Chinese tea house can also be found here: silk
cushions, a tranquil atmosphere and delicious infusions at Tai Tai Teahouse
in Walcot Street. A wide variety of accommodation is available in both
cities. It is possible to get a comfortable twin room from £50
per night. Nearby attractions include the villages of the Cotswold Hills,
the Wye Valley on the border with Wales, and King Arthur connections
at Glastonbury. From London fast trains run to Bristol and Bath - and
most rail tickets allow you to save money by stopping over at Bath on
your way back. Birmingham, Cardiff and, of course, Bristol airports
are within easy reach.
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